By William W. Abbott

One of the more intriguing early settlements in California involves the Polish colony in Anaheim. The story begins in Poland, and centers on a young aspiring actress, Helena Modjeska. Born Helena Opid in 1840, Modjeska at a relatively early age gained great fame and recognition as an actress. Her work as an actress brought her in contact with the prominent literati and liberals of time. At the time, Poland had been partitioned by Russia, Prussia and Austria, and the desire for unification and freedom was met with unbending, brutal responses by the occupiers. By 1875, while Modjeska was secure in both her success as an actress and by marriage to Count Bozenta, her health began to fail. The combination of political uncertainty and health concerns, coupled with their established wealth, gave the actress and her family the option not many others possessed: leaving Poland. California became the eventual destination, with a vision of creating a utopian community, similar to Brook Farm in West Roxbury, Massachusetts, a colony launched in 1840 by Transcendentalists.

The Modjeska family and entourage, arrived in San Francisco in 1876, having travelled by the overland Panama route. Upon arrival, her family was introduced to the existing ex pat Polish community. Drawing upon the early agricultural success of the German immigrants already in Anaheim (and recognizing that while few of the group could speak English, they could speak German fluently and thus could converse with existing residents), the Count acquired farm land in Anaheim and put into production. Nationalists and perhaps revolutionaries at heart, none of the colonists were farmers in their souls or their hands, and the agricultural colony quickly failed (1876-1878). Perhaps out of necessity, Modjeska then mastered the English language, and eventually became one of the most famous actresses touring America.

She eventually returned to Anaheim, and acquired significant property in Santiago Canyon. She commissioned the famous architect Stanford White to design her home. She named her estate “Arden”, from Shakespeare’s “As You Like It.” At Arden, she opened her house to visiting Polish illuminaries. After leaving the stage, she retired to Bay Island in Newport Bay where she died. While banned for political reasons from returning to Russian occupied Poland while alive, her body was ultimately interred in Krakow, where she is recognized as both an actress and patriot.

Helena Modjeska cast a large shadow. Her home was acquired by Orange County and is available for viewing. Modjeska Canyon and Modjeska Peak are named for her. Her son went on to become a bridge engineer on bridges throughout the United States, and at the age of 70, a consulting engineer on the Golden Gate Bridge.  Her circle of Polish ex pats included author Henryk Sienkiewicz, who later received the Nobel Peace Prize in literature for Quo Vadis, and international pianist Ignacy Paderewski, who after Polish independence in 1919, returned from California to become Poland’s first prime minister. Her autobiography is Memories and Impressions of Helena Modjeska. Additional source materials can be found in The Polish Colony of California 1876-1914, a thesis authored by Milton L Kosberg (1952), published by R and E Research Associates, San Francisco (1971).

By William W. Abbott

Readers may remember our earlier account of the first State of California planned community, Durham, in Butte County, started in 1913.  Apparently pleased with the perceived success in Durham, the State Land Settlement Board embraced a more ambitious goal, this time an 8,000 acre community to be located in the community of Delhi, in Merced County. On the heels of World War I, the legislature expanded the program to specifically serve returning veterans.

The soil quality at Delhi did not match that of Durham. Like Durham, the State installed critical improvements such as roads and water systems. On average the State paid $96.00 per acre, and after adding the improvement costs, and sold the land for $296.00 per acre. Delhi included a variety of parcels, from the Delhi townsite of small lots to working 2 acre parcels, designed as a parcel for a laborer to build a house and maintain a garden while working for others, on up to larger parcels. The community soon included homes, a lumberyard, a concrete pipe factory, (a building which still stands today), a community building and a plant nursery for planting new crops. As with Durham, the State financed the acquisition for the buyers and played a significant oversight role in advising and training the purchasers in agricultural practices. Although soils were less then ideal, improved agricultural practices over time improved yields.  A number of the Delhi parcels were acquired by veterans, however, the settlement did not sell out as originally planned.

By 1931, the State of California decided to exit the settlement business. Falling agricultural prices had adversely affected the residents of Durham and Delhi. As is common with many developers, the State shifted strategies during the downturn, and sold many parcels without the restrictions that would otherwise be in place. Without the State backup, the farmers were left on their own and over time, the more successful farmers prevailed. By the end of World War II, agriculture in Delhi and Durham was similar to surrounding areas.

California’s land settlement experiment resulted in a loss of around $2,500,000 to the State taxpayers.

For more information, see the following resources:

By William W. Abbott

We all are familiar with the State of California in its role in land planning and development as the uber regulator. But if you turn back the hands of time immediately before World War I, a different picture emerges; that of land developer.

The triggering event was the Wheatland Hop Riot in 1913. The Industrial Workers of the World (the “Wobblies”) made an early attempt to organize the field laborers. The resulting conflict between growers and laborers resulted in four deaths, with the State of California sending the National Guard to bring law and order to the fields. It was California’s first documented farm labor conflict. The Wheatland Hop Riot, coupled with a national progressive movement to improve the quality of life for farmers, lead to the California State Commission on Colonization and Rural Credits. Concerned with escalating land prices, land speculation and the growing economic gap between tenant farmers and landowners, the Commission’s charge was to craft a strategy to improve rural life.

To implement this vision, the legislature of 1917 passed the Land Settlement Act and created the Land Settlement Board. The Board’s first endeavor involved the acquisition of 6,219 acres in Butte County near the existing community of Durham, and the development of an agricultural colony. Durham was the brainchild of Elwood Mead. An irrigation expert and a leader in Wyoming water rights law, Mead also developed agricultural colonies in Australia. Later, as an instructor at U.C. Berkley, and relying on his Australia experience, he was hired to develop and organize the Durham settlement.

The State, using a multi-disciplinary approach involving numerous agencies, adopted a role which was more than that of just a subdivider. The Settlement Board brought together supporting disciplines such as public health and agricultural practices to increase the likelihood of success.  The State acquired land water rights, graded and planted crops, and built homes. The land was subdivided into various sized parcels based upon agricultural productivity, and through lease-purchase agreements, a community was born. The State actively directed life in Durham, from building homes to supervising agricultural practices. In other words, it was Big Brother meets Farmer John.

The Durham settlement was perceived as a success, and the legislature, in response to the end of the war, redirected the Land Settlement Act towards veterans and launched a second community in Delhi, Merced County. Delhi consisted of an 8,000 acre tract, essentially uncultivated land, and like Durham, had no supporting infrastructure. The town was laid out by a landscape architect from the University of California. Unabashedly, a writer for the Sacramento Bee declared: “In years to come, this town of Delhi, now little but surveyors’ lines and grade stakes, with a new home under way here and there, should attain the fame of Gary, Indiana, that specialty-built city of the Steel Corporation.” In hindsight, the Sacramento Bee was guilty of mild exuberance.

Want more information? Follow the links to period pieces, including Progress Under the Land Settlement Act, 1919, (and corresponding appendix) and How California Helps Men Own Farms and Rural Homes, 1920, as well as maps and photographs. Our next installment will examine Durham and Delhi in greater detail.

By William W. Abbott

California’s historic settlement patterns are far more diverse than what would first appear to be the case.  In addition to the religious (San Bernardino, Compton, Whittier ), the ethnic (Solvang, Ft. Ross) and the timber company towns (Samoa, Westwood, McCloud), there are numerous spiritual, philosophical, labor and socialist undertakings in this state’s history. This article is an overview of the labor/socialist origins of the Kaweah Colony, located in eastern Tulare County.

The period following the Civil War was a time, both nationally and internationally, in which there was rising dissatisfaction with capitalism as preferred of national economic model. An American socialist, Laurence Grodlund, wrote of Gwerman socialism in Co-operative Commonwealth, a publication which circulated in the United States. Labor activists in the San Francisco Bay Area became interested in Grodlund’s description of a better way. Influenced by Grodlund and other prominent writers, a group of Bay Area residents, lead by the labor activists, organized the Kaweah Co-Operative Commonwealth (the Kaweah Colony). Its purpose was to patent the newly opened timbered resources of eastern Tulare County and use the timber as the basis for a new society. Eastern Tulare was largely inaccessible and thus of little interest to commercial timber interests. The participants applied for 53 patents covering 12,000 acres of land surrounding the forks of the Kaweah River. The Land Patent Office, suspicious of recent fraudulent patent activity in Humboldt County, was slow to process the claims. Assuming success, and perhaps encouraged by the land agents to move forward, the Kaweah Commonwealth was launched without the patents. Funds were not only raised by the participants as part of a buy-in, but also from national and European sources as well. Many of the members never lived at Kaweah, but active clubs supporting Kaweah existed in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Denver, and New York. The colony was begun, and its principal undertaking, starting in 1886, was the construction of an 18 mile road over a four-year period to access the standing timber resources. The plan was that the logs were to be cut, milled, and then hauled to market. In terms of daily life, the colony has its own medium of exchange, wherein all participants were paid, based upon the time devoted to Colony undertakings. The time credits could be exchanged for meals and goods at the Colony store. Recognizing that all labor was valuable, all work was credited at the same exchange rate.

The Colony began at Arcady, up from Three Rivers. As most labor and resources were devoted to the road construction, few other prominent improvements were developed other than improvised road construction camps.  The Colony received a death-blow, when, at the same time that the road was completed in 1890, Congress created Sequoia National Park, with the surrounding lands dedicated to national forest. As the Land Office had never taken final action on the colonists land patents, their work was for naught. Their land claims were rejected and they were now trespassers, charged with stealing timber resources from the federal lands.

By 1890, colony constructed buildings in Kaweah, including a hall for dining and meetings, a blacksmith shop, a print shop, a barn and a blacksmith shop. The post office still stands (although in a different location), and the colonist’s road was used by the Park Service for many years as the only road to the sequoia groves. Among other accomplishments, the colonists published a newspaper, the Kaweah Commonwealth (still published today.)

By 1892, most of the Colony had disbanded. Its peak population is estimated at about 300 individuals, and membership peaked at 500.

For further reading, I recommend California’s Utopian Colonies (Yale Western Americana Paperbound, 1953 by Robert Hine) and Co-Operative Dreams: A History of the Kaweah Colony (Raven River Press, 1999 by Jay O’Connell).

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